puppy health care
lo spinone... Un cane per me, per voi, non per tutti
This quote from Francesco Saverio Gianotti translates as "The Spinone: a dog for me, for you, not for everyone". These are incredibly cute looking dogs who exhibit very sweet natures when raised correctly, and the pups are simply adorable. They are not, however, for the houseproud, the proud gardener, the short-tempered or the person who works long hours. They are spectacularly messy, often stubborn, easily bored and require patience, company and attention in abundance. They are also extremely sensitive and when young are especially fearful. They require a lot of socialisation and a gentle but firm hand, they are not the sort of dog you can yell at or manhandle. There is a saying that you can't tell a Spinone what to do it, but you can ask it nicely. Requests for a puppy with a dry beard will probably get you blacklisted from every breeder in the country - if you want someone to sell you one of their cherished pups you had better be comfortable with slobber! If you have never owned a Spinone but think they may be the dog for you, check out the links section at the back and do a little research. The ISCGB website and the various Facebook groups are a great starting place, join as many as you can and ask for details of breeders/owners in your area. A lot of regions run regular get-togethers and walks where you can meet and greet these wonderful dogs and also learn of all the drawbacks that come with Spinone ownership.
If you decide you want a Spinone but would prefer to adopt, there is a specialised Spinone Rehome group who will match you with the perfect dog, but you may have to wait. Contact [email protected], or call 0871 996 7746 for further information.
If you decide you want a Spinone but would prefer to adopt, there is a specialised Spinone Rehome group who will match you with the perfect dog, but you may have to wait. Contact [email protected], or call 0871 996 7746 for further information.
choosing your puppy
Having decided that they are for you, be sure to only ever buy a puppy from a Kennel Club Accredited Breeder. You can find lists of available litters on the ISCGB site (contact Gaynor Killick on 01895 447625, or email: [email protected]) and also in Champdogs. There are always unregistered and 'preloved' dogs advertised for sale on the internet, often at a discounted rate. Avoid these at your peril, unregistered dogs usually come with no health checks, from overbred bitches (later litters will produce weak and sickly pups) or from accidental matings which may involve closely related dams and sires. Whatever the reason, you will never be able to show these dogs, or breed registered pedigree dogs from them because of the inherent health risks. Also, the miniscule savings in the price of the puppy will doubtless cost you dearly when their health deteriorates.
All respectable breeders will offer you cradle to grave care in terms of care and advice with a promise to take the dog back for whatever reason should you no longer be able to keep it. Good breeders want an assurance that the pups they have bred are going to a good home so do not be offended if they grill you about your intentions. Puppies should come with, as a bare minimum:
Never buy a puppy unless you are able to meet and inspect the dam first. Your puppy should be fireside/hearth reared: This means that they are raised within a normal domestic home and are subjected from an early age to all the sounds, smells and sights that occur in a normal domestic setting. Dogs reared in outside kennels or farms tend to be very nervous and fearful making them difficult to socialise, and often display serious behavioural problems in adolescence.
All respectable breeders will offer you cradle to grave care in terms of care and advice with a promise to take the dog back for whatever reason should you no longer be able to keep it. Good breeders want an assurance that the pups they have bred are going to a good home so do not be offended if they grill you about your intentions. Puppies should come with, as a bare minimum:
- CA clear certificate for both dam and sire
- Hip scores for both dam and sire, less than 20 is preferred with a lower score being better
- Primary vaccination certificate, details of worming
- Microchip
- Kennel Club registration
- An endorsement preventing breeding. Pups are sold subject to the condition that they will be a companion dog only. These endorsements are to stop the breed itself from becoming flooded with many dogs from what is still a relatively small gene pool. Most litters are planned very carefully and responsible breeders often import dogs from other countries or sire their litters abroad to keep the gene pool fresh and healthy, and to protect and preserve the welfare of these wonderful dogs. If you wish to breed from your puppy at a future date, discuss it with their breeder before you buy.
- A small amount of the food that they have been fed on so that they have continuation in their new home.
Never buy a puppy unless you are able to meet and inspect the dam first. Your puppy should be fireside/hearth reared: This means that they are raised within a normal domestic home and are subjected from an early age to all the sounds, smells and sights that occur in a normal domestic setting. Dogs reared in outside kennels or farms tend to be very nervous and fearful making them difficult to socialise, and often display serious behavioural problems in adolescence.
preparing for car journeys
Since you will probably have to travel some distance to collect your puppy, be sure that your car is equipped for the journey home. You will probably want to sit in the back with your puppy in your lap to keep them company in what will probably be their first car ride. Do take a piddle pad or absorbent towel with you, their nerves and tiny bladder may not be up to the excitement of the new experience. Bearing this in mind, it may be a good idea to purchase a DAP/Adaptil spray from your vet/nearest pet store prior to collecting your puppy and liberally spray the car to produce a comforting environment. If the journey is long, be sure to have fresh water and a bowl with you and plan a stop along the way for the puppy to have a toilet break and a drink.
Your car should be equipped to secure the puppy in the boot as they grow with either a crate or a custom made guard and/or tailgate. If your boot is not big enough for a dog, you will need to purchase a car safety harness to protect your dog in transit.
Your car should be equipped to secure the puppy in the boot as they grow with either a crate or a custom made guard and/or tailgate. If your boot is not big enough for a dog, you will need to purchase a car safety harness to protect your dog in transit.
preparing your home
There may be areas of your home that you don't wish your puppy to have uncontrolled access to (e.g. stairs) so you may have to buy child safety gates to block off access.
You will no doubt have many toys for the new addition to your home. Some of these will be safe to leave where your puppy can get at them, others may only be suitable for supervised play (choking hazards such as small balls, stuffed toys) therefore it is advisable to clear out a store cupboard or buy a lidded toybox according to your needs.
Any medications and/or chemical cleaners will need to be stored away from enquiring minds and puppy teeth.
Use a DAP/Adaptil spray/plug-in to create a comforting environment for the puppy to arrive in.
Move any cat litter tray to where you puppy cannot reach it, kitty litter is a favourite snack! Bearing this in mind it is worth checking that your cat litter is of the non clumping kind - clumpable litter can cause a blockage when eaten by dogs.
You will no doubt have many toys for the new addition to your home. Some of these will be safe to leave where your puppy can get at them, others may only be suitable for supervised play (choking hazards such as small balls, stuffed toys) therefore it is advisable to clear out a store cupboard or buy a lidded toybox according to your needs.
Any medications and/or chemical cleaners will need to be stored away from enquiring minds and puppy teeth.
Use a DAP/Adaptil spray/plug-in to create a comforting environment for the puppy to arrive in.
Move any cat litter tray to where you puppy cannot reach it, kitty litter is a favourite snack! Bearing this in mind it is worth checking that your cat litter is of the non clumping kind - clumpable litter can cause a blockage when eaten by dogs.
crate
You should ideally provide your dog with a crate. This is not, as some people think, a cruel device for detaining/controlling your dog but rather a safe haven for your puppy to retreat to in order to relax and sleep (they will need 16 hours sleep a day initially after all!). A crate will also help to keep your puppy out of harm's way if you have to leave them for any length of time, be it for 5 minutes or several hours. Do not use the crate as a punishment zone: It should always be a safe and happy place for your pup. Make sure it is equipped with a comfortable warm blanket (ideally vet bed), a water supply (you can buy bowls that clip onto the bars that help reduce the spillage) and a small selection of safe chew toys e.g. nylabone, tug-rope. It is advisable to keep a small towel/toy/piece of bedding that has been in with the pup's dam and littermates previously (discuss with breeder before collecting the pup) to comfort them in their initial transition. Keep the crate in your own bedroom for the first few days and spray with DAP/Adaptil whilst your puppy adapts to their new surroundings. After 2/3 days it should be OK to move it to your living area.
vaccination and worming
Before collecting your puppy from your breeder, make an appointment at your vets to register your puppy and have a preliminary health check. These are usually free and are a great opportunity to introduce your puppy to the vets. Your vet will discuss vaccinations, worming, flea treatments etc. with you and furnish you with an appropriate schedule. Feel free to check out all the vets in your area and choose the one that you feel is more appropriate to your needs.
socialisation
Socialisation is of the utmost importance when raising a puppy. A dog that is secure in it's environment will be happy, well-adjusted and easy to live with. Any new experience for your puppy is potentially terrifying to them. By exposing them to as much environmental stimulus as possible at an early age, and by showing no fear of such experiences yourself, you encourage them to overcome their fearfulness. It is important that you do not overreact when your puppy shows fear. Often it is the case that by comforting them you reinforce their belief that the situation is fearful and increase their neurosis. It is of particular importance to socialise your puppy as soon as you can since they undergo a fear imprint period between the ages of 8 and 12 weeks. During this time any fearful encounter will have a lasting effect. There are many actions you can take to positively socialise your dog:
- Be sure to book your puppy in for puppy classes at your local vets. These are a great opportunity for your puppy to mix with other dogs their age.
- It's a good idea to check out local training classes for obedience/ring craft/field work as these also help your puppy to mix. These classes are essential if you live in remote areas where they will rarely encounter other dogs.
- Whilst you are waiting for your pup's vaccinations to take effect, carry them around your neighbourhood to get them used to the sights, sounds and smells that they will encounter when they start walking.
- Once they are able to go on short walks, encourage them to mix with as many people and dogs as you can, this isn't hard as they are easily the cutest puppies in the world and most people are happy to stop and greet them. Take them to your local pub and or cafe and encourage them to settle while you enjoy your drink/lunch.
- Get them used to being handled from an early age, this includes touching their feet, prying into their mouths and lifting their tails. Your vet and/or groomer will be extremely grateful to you for this.
- You can buy CDs with firework and other loud noises to assist you with overcoming any fear they may have, or search YouTube for free mp3s, such as this one: http://www.dogsandfireworks.com/downloads/fireworks.mp3
- Try to walk/carry your puppy near a local school to get them used to crowds of young children and all of the squeals that go with them.
- Try to walk/carry them where you know there will be cyclists, joggers, wheelchairs, pushchairs, scooters or skateboards. Take them out when the dustmen are collecting the rubbish - all of these sights and sounds can make a young dog very fearful. Walk them when traffic is at it's peak.
- Introduce them to bubble wrap, party poppers and balloons at an early age. Party poppers are a good pre-cursor to fireworks since they can get used to the 'gunpowder' smell which is as alien to them as the loud banging noise. It can also be of great benefit if you intend to work your Spinone.
grooming
It is essential for your puppy's health that they are groomed. A good brush two or three times a week is enough to deter matts from forming. As a bare minimum you will need a slicker brush and a rotating tooth comb. The comb is great for gently breaking up matts that are starting to form without pulling or hurting your puppy. Give their undercarriage a good wipe when you have finished brushing.
If your puppy has a very wet beard, you are advised to comb it daily to keep it tangle free. Cleaning your puppy's beard after every meal is a good habit to get into. Depending on the level of slobber that your pup produces it may be OK to simply use warm water but muckier pups will benefit from a half cider vinegar/half water solution or a very dilute Hibiscrub solution. The latter two will help to keep lip fold pyoderma at bay.
If you have a male dog, keep the hair around the tip of the penis trimmed back to stop it becoming dirty.
For more extensive grooming advice ask your breeder/groomer or purchase the grooming DVD from ISCGB.
If your puppy has a very wet beard, you are advised to comb it daily to keep it tangle free. Cleaning your puppy's beard after every meal is a good habit to get into. Depending on the level of slobber that your pup produces it may be OK to simply use warm water but muckier pups will benefit from a half cider vinegar/half water solution or a very dilute Hibiscrub solution. The latter two will help to keep lip fold pyoderma at bay.
If you have a male dog, keep the hair around the tip of the penis trimmed back to stop it becoming dirty.
For more extensive grooming advice ask your breeder/groomer or purchase the grooming DVD from ISCGB.
toilet training
At first your puppy will not be able to go through the night without needing to wee. Their bladder takes a good while to expand to the point where they can go 8 hours+ and until then you will have to either: (a) get up in the middle of the night to let them out or (b) make provisions, e.g. newspaper in their crate for them to go where they will not soil their bed.
Have a command word/phrase such as 'Be clean' and be consistent, make sure the whole family use the same command. Take your puppy outside every hour on the hour, regardless of weather and use your command word to instruct them to do their business. When they wee or poo, clap your hands and praise them in a high pitched voice to show your pleasure. If your pup starts to wee or poo in the house, shove them outside and praise them when they have finished. NEVER punish your puppy for going inside, you will make them neurotic and far more likely to soil indoors. If they have visitors or are subjected to other excitement, let them out immediately as they may lose control.
Have a command word/phrase such as 'Be clean' and be consistent, make sure the whole family use the same command. Take your puppy outside every hour on the hour, regardless of weather and use your command word to instruct them to do their business. When they wee or poo, clap your hands and praise them in a high pitched voice to show your pleasure. If your pup starts to wee or poo in the house, shove them outside and praise them when they have finished. NEVER punish your puppy for going inside, you will make them neurotic and far more likely to soil indoors. If they have visitors or are subjected to other excitement, let them out immediately as they may lose control.
exercise
It can be difficult to know to know exactly how much to exercise a young pup. On the one hand, you want them to experience lots, and to wear themselves out occasionally. On the other hand you do not want them to damage their bones. It is worth noting that over-exercising a young dog can cause all manner of problems later in life. Large breed dogs like Spinone undergo rapid growth during adolescence which places incredible stress on their muscles and skeletal structure. Damage done at this young age will not show itself for years until it materialises as early onset osteo-arthritis. Bearing this in mind, it is advisable to never walk a dog for more than 5 minutes per month of age at a time, although it is recommended to do this twice a day with a good rest between. Puppies should also be given access to an outside area to explore at their leisure and should have lots of play/training breaks interspersed into their day. It is advisable not to run with a puppy until they are at least 9 months old. It is also advisable to restrict access to stairs until they are 18 months old. Where this is not possible, be sure to accompany your dog and make sure it climbs up/down stairs at a sensible pace. Try to prevent your dog from leaping on and off furniture or playing too boisterously until it is at least 18 months old. Agility lessons can be fun and a good way to exercise your dog but do not allow them to jump hurdles until they are at least 18 months. In addition to physical exercise, your Spinone will require mental stimulation so play and/or training is essential. There are some great boredom busting toys available from pet shops to keep them occupied if you have to leave them alone for any length of time.
NB: Never suppose that your dog knows best: Most puppies will run and play forever given the opportunity, regardless of the harm they may do themselves. Be a killjoy and call time-out - your dog will thank you for it later in in life.
Equally important to exercise is their access to a quiet area where they can sleep undisturbed and recharge their batteries, many a pup will show aggressive/unruly behaviour through sheer tiredness alone. A growing puppy needs 16 hours of quality sleep a day.
NB: Never suppose that your dog knows best: Most puppies will run and play forever given the opportunity, regardless of the harm they may do themselves. Be a killjoy and call time-out - your dog will thank you for it later in in life.
Equally important to exercise is their access to a quiet area where they can sleep undisturbed and recharge their batteries, many a pup will show aggressive/unruly behaviour through sheer tiredness alone. A growing puppy needs 16 hours of quality sleep a day.
teething
Teething in puppies can be soothed by using the following methods:
- Using a tug toy or knotted flannel soaked in water and then frozen. It is good to have a supply of these so that when one is in use, another is freezing to take it's place. Frozen carrots can also offer some relief.
- Baby teething gel can safely be used on their gums to reduce pain and inflammation, as can chamomile baby teething granules.
- Your puppy should always have access to a good supply of teething toys such as nylon bones or Kongs to gnaw on.
- Sometimes adult teeth emerge before the puppy teeth have come out. It is worth checking with your vet as sometimes the baby teeth may need to be removed for your puppy's comfort.